Sunday 23 October 2016

Welcome to Lubxiljullrghghu (how the hell do you spell this place)

The trip today from Vienna to Ljubljana was the stuff of picture postcards around almost every bend of the railway line. We climbed very high on our way from Vienna until we were almost among the clouds and the snow-covered peaks of the Alps were clearly visible. The trains passes through many smaller villages, and some large cities, the former being our favourites. The architecture of the houses and farm buildings is so typically Austrian or Swiss in appearance, and just as you see it on travel programs of the area. Obviously, the topography is anything other than flat and the grass is a vibrant green.  

As luck would have it, we arrived in Ljubljana just in time for a hamburger and beer festival - two of my favourite things in the world

We needed to change trains just near the Slovenian border, and had just seven minutes in which to get from one train to the next. Not a problem, we thought (Austrian trains are always on time). However, we followed the crowd, thinking they were also going to Ljubljana, until the crowd led us to a bus outside the station. Realizing we had made a mistake, and don’t forget we had just seven minutes to find the right train, we managed to ask someone which platform we needed to be on and hastily ran up two flights of stairs only to find our train preparing to leave. Had we missed it, we would not have been in Ljubljana on Saturday evening as planned, but probably on a well-appointed park bench somewhere in Villach. We flung open the doors, threw our luggage in, and hopped on just as the train pulled out from the platform. That was just a little too close for comfort, the moral being; don’t blindly follow the crowd in a foreign country unless you know where they’re going.

What Ljubljanans call 'the red church' - it's actually faded to more of a pink colour

We settled into our compartment, which had only one other person, and prepared for two and a half hours of relaxing sightseeing, or so we thought. The other person in our compartment was a Croatian national living in Hamburg on her way home to visit her Croatian mother. She’d been on the train for about nine hours already and had another five or six to go, so I think she relished the company. Her English was reasonably good, but our Croation was non-existent, so our conversation was interesting, if at times laboured. Although we saw almost none of the scenery (what we did see was stunningly beautiful), we really enjoyed the time we spent with her. We learnt all about her two children, and she about ours, her upbringing in Croatia and how she dreamed of returning one day, and how Germany was changing forever due to the influx of migrants from Syria. We really enjoyed the opportunity to interact with someone who could explain the recent history of this area, including the time under Tito (when Slovenia was part of Yugoslavia) and the terrible Balkans War.

This is the oldest building in Ljubljana, somehow it survived the 1895 earthquake (although I reckon it looks like it didn't survive)


Today, we spent most of the day walking the streets of Ljubljana by doing one of the ‘free’ walking tours (payment is by way of a tip – our tip was for the guide to love his mum, lol). The tour went for a little over two and a half hours and was really very informative. Following the tour, we took a forty-five minute trip on a boat on the river; very relaxing. The old part of Ljubljana is very lovely, and is really divided in half by the Ljubljanica River. One side is very old and features mainly baroque architecture, while the other half, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1895, was rebuilt in the Austrian secession style (Slovenia was once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire). 

Some typical streets in the old city, looking towards Ljubljana Castle

That's the castle on the hill

The old city looks very medieval and is best described as quaint. The newer parts of Ljubljana are best described as a mix of Cold War Soviet architecture and twentieth century Western styles. Tomorrow we plan on going to Bled, a town probably best known for its lovely lake. It’s about ninety minutes away by bus, and should give us a second chance to take in the beautiful countryside. Note to self; don’t get dragged into conversations with locals this time.


The lovely river running right through the old city

Our little boat - handmade out of wood by a man from Bled

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